Blue-green algae: What is it, and why is it bad for your dog? 

What it is

You may have seen social media posts about blue-green algae in ponds and lakes in the area.  Blue-green algae is the common name used for cyanobacteria which are a group of bacteria that live in mostly still water such as lakes and ponds. 

Blue-green algae is extremely poisonous to dogs if they ingest it. If they swim in a lake that contains it they might drink it, or it can seep into their fur and they might lick it afterwards. It can lead to liver failure.  

Where is it?

It is mainly found in lakes and ponds, ie. still water. All the areas of Waltham Forest and beyond have potential to have this. It is confirmed at Alexander Lake at Wanstead Flats. However, the ponds and lakes owned by Corporation of London (who manage the majority of the green spaces in the area) are not routinely tested so it’s not possible to confirm which ponds do and do not have it. Therefore it is safest to assume that all ponds do have it. 

When is it dangerous

It is much more toxic in the summer when the water is low and therefore the algae is at much greater concentration and much more toxic to dogs. It is there all year round but at lower concentrations and therefore less toxic when water is high in the rainier months.

What to do?

Keep your dog away from lakes and ponds that you know, or suspect may, contain blue-green algae especially in the summer. 

Dogs should not be allowed to swim or paddle in water that contains blue-green algae.

Don’t let dogs drink from water that may have blue-green algae in. Because the wind often blows blooms of algae to the edges of ponds or lakes, higher concentrations of the toxin are more likely to be present in the parts of the water your dog may drink from.

Take note of signs warning of the algae during dog walks and follow the information given.

Where is it safe for them to paddle? 

All water, especially in the summer months may have high concentrations of blue-green algae. However fresh running streams are always the better option for your dog to have a paddle. But if you do spot algae there, then don’t let your dog go in. 

What to do 

If you suspect they’ve drunk from the pond then they need to go to the bed and be made to be sick. 

If your dog does swim in a lake that contains algae you need to wash them thoroughly straight away. 

Wash them with shampoo, mainly focusing on areas where your dog would lick themselves. E.g paws, legs, chest. Lots of rinsing and make sure it’s thoroughly out. It takes an hour for it to settle into their fur so it’s important you do this as soon as possible. 

You then can either call your vet and ask for advice or you can monitor them closely and look out for these symptoms: 

  • Vomiting/being sick.
  • Diarrhoea.
  • Seizures/fitting.
  • Weakness/collapse/unconsciousness.
  • Disorientation/confusion.
  • Drooling.
  • Breathing difficulties.

If your dog does show any of these symptoms, take them to a vet immediately. 

Be aware 

Just always be aware that all water can contain algae, so try and stop your pooch jumping in particularly in the summer months. Aug 2022 

Further reading

https://www.pca.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/wq-swm1-04.pdf

https://www.bluecross.org.uk/advice/dog/blue-green-algae-and-its-dangers-to-dogs

 

 

Fleas, ticks and treatments: Dec 23

This is making me itch just writing it!

There have been some problems with fleas lately and there are a few reports about certain products not working especially Advocate which we know a lot of people use.

I think this may have been compounded by the mild wet weather this autumn which may have made spot on treatments less effective.

So, you may need to adjust your treatment regime and go looking for those little critters quite regularly.  If your dog is treated correctly and regularly then even if they come into fleas from a cat or another dog, or from rolling around in the forest, then the fleas will be repelled and unable to live on them.

What you can do

Quality: Please use a prescription product: speak to your vet

Timings: Make sure you’re using it as directed. When it says every 4 weeks, then it has to be at least every 4 weeks. Some dogs have a shorter cycle.

Vet: Speak to your vet if you are using a product and your dog still gets fleas. Some products don’t seem to work on all dogs.

Your home: If you do find fleas then you will also need to treat your home and vehicle. This can be an ongoing issue and the lifecycle can be up to a month. Again speak to your vet.

Comb: Use a flea comb regularly to check for fleas.

Getting wet: If your dog is getting wet a lot through, swimming / out in the very heavy rain / is regularly bathed etc, then it can wash off and may need doing more frequently.

Switch it up: If your dog has been on the same flea treatment for a long time then switching product can help as dogs can become immune to a product. Speak to your vet. Over the counter products are generally not good enough, though a flea collar can be used as well as other products.

Good Alternatives

Bravecto: There is another product, Bravecto which is a prescription chewable tablet that a dog takes quarterly and is an alternative to the spot on products. It doesn’t cover worming (so that needs to be done every quarter – Drontal is the usual product for this and they can both be give at the same time ) or lung worm, but is a much more environmentally friendly product because the spot on product then doesn’t enter the water system which can be problematic to wildlife.

Flea treating your home and vehicle

We’ve found RIP Fleas Extra to be a really effective product.

Owner’s commitment

It is each owner’s responsibility to ensure the efficacy of the treatment they are using and to check their dog regularly for fleas and ticks and then to let us know of any problems. Unfortunately dogs cannot attend daycare or group walks, boarding etc until they are flea free. If you do have a flea issue, please let us know immediately and speak to your vet, especially if your product isn’t working.

Thanks as always for your cooperation.

Fleas, ticks and treatments: Dec 23

This is making me itch just writing it!

There have been some problems with fleas lately and there are a few reports about certain products not working especially Advocate which we know a lot of people use.

So, you may need to adjust your treatment regime and go looking for those little critters quite regularly.  If your dog is treated correctly and regularly then even if they come into fleas from a cat or another dog, or from rolling around in the forest, then the fleas will be repelled and unable to live on them.

What you can do

Quality: Please use a prescription product: speak to your vet

Timings: Make sure you’re using it as directed. When it says every 4 weeks, then it has to be at least every 4 weeks. Some dogs have a shorter cycle.

Vet: Speak to your vet if you are using a product and your dog still gets fleas. Some products don’t seem to work on all dogs.

Your home: If you do find fleas then you will also need to treat your home and vehicle. This can be an ongoing issue and the lifecycle can be up to a month. Again speak to your vet.

Comb: Use a flea comb regularly to check for fleas.

Getting wet: If your dog is getting wet a lot through, swimming / out in the very heavy rain / is regularly bathed etc, then it can wash off and may need doing more frequently.

Switch it up: If your dog has been on the same flea treatment for a long time then switching product can help as dogs can become immune to a product. Speak to your vet. Over the counter products are generally not good enough, though a flea collar can be used as well as other products.

Alternatives

Bravecto: There is another product, Bravecto which is a prescription chewable tablet that a dog takes quarterly and is an alternative to the spot on products. It doesn’t cover worming (so that needs to be done every quarter – drontal is the usual product for this and they can both be give at the same time ) or lung worm, but is a more environmentally friendly product.

Owner’s commitment

It is each owner’s responsibility to ensure the efficacy of the treatment they are using and to check their dog regularly for fleas and ticks and then to let us know of any problems. Unfortunately dogs cannot attend daycare or group walks, boarding etc until they are flea free. If you do have a flea issue, please let us know immediately and speak to your vet, especially if your product isn’t working.

Thanks as always for your cooperation.

Kennel Cough: how to recognise it, prevent and treat it

Kennel Cough

What does kennel cough sound like? 

To hear what kennel cough sounds like, go to 1.13 on the video.  It is a cough with usually a wretch at the end.

What is kennel cough? 

Kennel Cough is an air-borne multi-strain cough. It’s highly contagious and if your dog is infected then it prevents walking in a group environment.  A vaccination is available from your vet and though it only covers the major strains,it will speed up recovery and minimise symptoms even if your dog does contract it. Kennel cough isn’t dangerous to a healthy adult dog though puppies and older or sick dogs can be very ill with it, it is still a MASSIVE pain in the neck and unpleasant for your dog, so is well worth avoiding.

How do dogs catch kennel cough?

From other dogs and from where other dogs have been which is why we take sure care with it. it is air borne and is carried in spores so if your dog is sniffing where another dog has been who has the disease, then your dog can still pick it up even if not in contact with the carrier dog. It is often picked up in boarding kennels or rescue centres, dog shows and small dog parks.

Help! What do i do???

Prevention is best

  • MAKE SURE YOUR DOG IS UP TO DATE WITH THE KENNEL COUGH VACCINATION. Always ask for it when you go for the annual booster.  And if you haven’t got it already, then please make an appointment asap as this becomes more common during the summer.
  • As kennel cough vax isn’t part of the normal series of vaccinations please do make sure you ask for it it addition to the standard vaccinations. Your vet may say it isn’t 100% certain it will prevent kennel cough, however it will provide protection from the main strains, and it will minimise symptoms and speed up recovery times if they do come into contact with it.
  • Dogs can carry and pass on the disease for up to 2 weeks before they show any symptoms. Therefore it is essential for all dogs walking with Happy Hounds & Cooler Cats to be inoculated for their own protection and the protection of other dogs.
  • This is mainly preventable so PLEASE do get them jabbed up!

But what if they do contract it? 

  • If you notice your dog is coughing, then keep them away from other dogs and lead walk only avoiding coming into contact with other dogs.
  • Take to the vets immediately so they can confirm and administer antibiotics.
  • PLEASE inform Happy Hounds & Cooler Cats immediately so we can inform other dogs and put in place our kennel cough procedure.

Treatment: Vaccination, antibiotics and isolation from other dogs.

Incubation period: 2 weeks

Puppy toilet training

Puppy – toilet training

Here at Happy Hounds we are more than happy to give you basic tips and techniques. How toilet training works for your puppy? It should be quite a simple process, as long as you’re patient and take the time to develop a good routine.

You will need to build your routine around your puppies needs which are reliably predictable when your puppy is very young. Eating meals stimulates the digestive system. They will normally need to urinate 15 minutes after eating and defecate half an hour to an hour after. Having a feeding routine is very important as it will regulate your pup’s toileting. Puppies need to go every 1-2 hours so it’s so important you try and get them out in the garden as often as you can. They can wee if they get excited so take your puppy out regularly if they have been active or playing. Don’t expect your pup to hold it in through the whole night especially when they are very young.

Outside

When you’re out in the garden try and use cue words like “wee wee” and “poo poo” whilst they are actually urinating or defecating. Use different words for each action so that you can prompt the puppy later on. Don’t use words like “good girl” or “good boy” as the next time you say that guess what could happen? Always go with your puppy whenever they are in the garden so that you can reward them when they go with lots of vocal praise and treats. If you introduce the garden as the toilet area as soon as you can. You shouldn’t get your puppy into the bad habit of going indoors. If they ever do go indoors never ever punish them. These rumours of pushing their face in it or shouting at them never works. They will then become scared to go to the toilet full stop or in some cases, begin to eat their own poo in order to ‘hide it’ so they aren’t scolded. If your puppy does have an accident inside you don’t say anything just simply put them outside.

Dogs naturally don’t defecate where they sleep so never put puppy pads or try and persuade them to go near where they sleep. If they are crated it is very important that you let them out first thing in the morning. Use cleaning products that are specifically for cleaning up pet odours. It will get rid of the smell and will stop them recognising a ‘marked’ area and so they won’t repeatedly go in the same place.  If you have left your puppy alone for a while and you come home, don’t make a fuss just get them straight out into the garden. If you make a big fuss, your puppy is going to get excited and will probably wee out of excitement when he sees you.

On the walk

If you’re struggling to get your puppy weeing and pooing whilst out on a walk then you could try taking them out first thing in the morning before they have had their morning wee. Make this routine and praise them when they go.  Some pups struggle to learn to go when outside as they think the only place they can go is at home or in the garden. So try and get them out on walks as soon as they’ve had their jabs using your prompt words to try and persuade them to go.

Puppy Habits – Biting

Puppy habits

Puppies will develop bad habits, this is all part of the process of them growing up. It’s important that you know what to do to help make these puppy habits go away. Here at Happy Hounds we have been asked numerous questions. Mainly on how to stop a puppy from biting, whining, jumping up and toilet training. The biggest piece of advice we can give you is to be patient. These processes take determination and time. You will not fix these problems overnight and every puppy is different. So it’s figuring out what works best for your puppy. Here at Happy Hounds we are more than happy to advise you.

The Biting

I think we all agree that this is the habit most owners want to get rid of as soon as possible. Those tiny razor sharp teeth can really hurt sometimes especially when your pup is at the age of 3 to 4 months and getting bigger by the day! There are various ways to teach this lesson, the overall goal is to stop them mouthing and biting people altogether. Firstly let’s teach our puppies that our skin is very sensitive. That they must be very gentle when using their mouths.

Biting inhibition is a dog’s ability to control the force of his mouthing. Trainers believe that a puppy that has learned to be gentle when playing with people is much less likely to bite hard or break the skin if they were to ever bite someone out of fear or pain. Puppies learn biting inhibition whilst playing with each other. If you watch puppies playing together you will see them biting each other all over. You will then notice when a puppy bites another too hard, the pup that’s been bitten will let out a loud “yelp” sound and will stop playing.  The offender will be taken back by the “yelp” and will also stop playing for a moment. However in no time the pups are back to playing the game. Now this is what we recommend that YOU do when your pup bites you too hard. Through this interaction puppies learn to control intensity of their bite so no one gets hurt and they can continue to play. If they can teach each other that, then they can learn to do the same with people.

What to do

You’re playing with your puppy, everything is fine until he really nips you and it hurts. This is when you let out a high pitched “yelp!” and immediately stop playing. You could also try just physically turning your back on them. All the fun that you were just having together must immediately stop. I have personally done this and then the puppy has licked me afterwards as if to almost apologise because he realised he bit me too hard. That is what you want! You then need to make the judgement call of when it’s time to go back to the play. Another way to help puppies learn bite inhibition is to play lots of tug of war, this is a great game to play. Be positive when they are doing what you want them to do, lots of praise. For example if they are playing nicely and grabbing that tug of war and really going for it, good boy! Yes! Always reward puppies when they are doing what you want them to.

As I mentioned before this takes time, doing this once won’t magically stop your puppy from biting. What it will do is teach them, learning takes time. Make sure everyone in your household is providing the same rules, otherwise the pup can become confused. This is a phase that will eventually go. Be patient!

Dog underweight issues

Under weight issues

There are many possibilities for why dogs can be underweight, worms, diabetes, disease, bad teeth, and anxiety. The most likely is not getting enough nutrition from their food or by being under fed. Regardless of the cause take any dog underweight issues very seriously. Every time you have an appointment at the vets your dog should always be weighed. Your vet will tell you whether he’s over or underweight and advise you on what you can do to help. There are lots of varied dog food out there that is high in calories or low to help with gaining and losing weight.

At Happy Hounds we sometimes come across dogs that seem to be looking underweight. Now we understand that every breed is different and that age has a lot to do with it. What we have noticed is that some dogs can look skinny when they are between the ages of six months to just over a year. This is very common something we tend to see in Labrador or high energy breeds. Dogs don’t fully develop till the age of two so when we see this it doesn’t massively concern us. We just like to suggest maybe increasing their food, especially if they are dog that charges around and gets lots of exercise.

We will always let you know of any concerns we may have with your dogs. Whenever we give advice it’s coming from a good place, we NEVER mean to offend. We just like to think of ourselves as doggy experts. We like to make our clients aware of any information or guidance that we can give.

What to do:

If you feel your dog is looking underweight the best thing to do is increase their food intake little by little. Don’t over feed them. Of course any major concerns it is always good to ask your vet (they are the experts after all). It’s also good to remember that dogs are not people. Their digestive system and what they should and shouldn’t eat are COMPLETELY different to ours. If you have a fit and healthy life style that is great but it doesn’t mean that your doggy should be on a strict diet to.

Now it’s important to just be aware of how your dog should look. Ribs shouldn’t be visible and the hip bones should not be poking out. (We understand this is different with greyhound breeds). So your dog’s weight and diet is just something to be aware of. Food is very important and I think we forget how much of an effect it has on our lives and our doggies, after all you are what you eat. If you ever have any questions about food or the amount of exercise your dog should be getting never hesitate to get in touch. We’d love to help you and your pooches in any way we can.

 

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